6 Bust Dart Manipulation

In this chapter you will learn and practice different techniques which allow the costumer to fit clothing closely to the body. Although we will be working with women’s clothing forms, these techniques can apply to men’s clothing as well.

Items you will need:

• Push pins (at least one)
• Surface you can pin into–cardboard, cork, etc.
• Pencil
• Tape
• Ruler
• Printer (with paper)

6.1 Introduction

The art of clothing construction is one which essentially turns a flat piece of cloth (or something similar) into a 3 dimensional sculpture which rests on the human body as its armature. The variety of clothing forms worn throughout history by different cultures illustrate an enjoyment of creatively enveloping the body which mankind has been exploring for centuries.

Western clothing forms tend to be based upon fairly close-fitting garments. As you will note, if you take a piece of cloth and drape it over yourself, the fabric will fall into folds and the excess fabric may hamper freedom of movement.

In order to make a garment fit closely to the body, the fabric must be shaped.  This can be done by adding seams.

Darts can be added to make the garment fit more closely than seams alone.

6.2 Bust Dart to Waist Dart

Dart manipulation is one of the main techniques used in 20th century pattern making.  In this example, we will move the side seam dart which is under the armhole (shown above) to the waist.